Hotel Metropole Taormina
We recommend this address to travellers who like the idea of a hotel reinvented rather...
Grand Hotel Timeo has stood beside Taormina's Greek Theatre since 1873, long enough to have hosted Oscar Wilde, D. H. Lawrence, Guy de Maupassant and Kaiser Wilhelm II, and long enough to have become the reason Taormina turned into a grand-tour stop in the first place. The hotel's forty rooms sit inside a building restored around its original Sicilian Baroque detailing, with antique furnishings and period artworks kept rather than replaced. What the house has never lost is its view: the hillside position puts the ancient theatre on one side and, beyond it, the curve of the coast with Etna smoking in the distance. Little about the address has had to change to stay relevant.
We kept this hotel for the combination that's hard to find twice: a two-Michelin-Key address with a documented nineteenth-century guest list, a starred restaurant on site, and a position that can't be rebuilt elsewhere — next to the Greek Theatre, above the bay. Every room carries a private balcony or terrace, so the view that justifies the address is not confined to the public rooms. It is historic without being a museum, and it is grand without needing to say so.
The hotel sits on Via Teatro Greco, at the quiet end of Taormina's old town, close enough to the Greek Theatre to hear nothing of the crowds once its gates close for the evening. Corso Umberto's shops and cafes are a short, steep walk below. For the sea, the hotel runs a private shuttle down to its own beach club at Villa Sant'Andrea in Mazzarò bay, which spares guests the funicular queues other hotels in town send their guests to.
Price: Luxe
Vibe: Belle époque grand hotel, Sicilian Baroque, hushed and historic
Rooms: 40, antique furnishings, private balcony or terrace in every room
Best For: travellers after Taormina's grand-hotel history and a sea view in the same stay
Our Favorite Thing About the Hotel: the private shuttle to the hotel's own beach club at Villa Sant'Andrea
Dining: Otto Geleng, Michelin-starred, Sicilian-inspired Mediterranean cuisine, plus a literary terrace for lighter meals
Amenities: indoor and outdoor pools, gym, sauna, valet parking, concierge, private beach shuttle
Attractions: Teatro Greco (next door), Corso Umberto old town (short walk), Isola Bella and Mazzarò bay (via shuttle)
Rooms favour period character over minimalism: antique pieces, artworks chosen for the house rather than a catalogue, and a balcony or terrace in every category, which is where most guests end up spending the slow hours of the afternoon. At Otto Geleng, named for the German painter whose Taormina canvases helped put the town on the nineteenth-century map, the kitchen works Sicilian staples — swordfish, pistachio, ricotta — into a tasting menu built around the terrace's view as much as the plate. A separate literary terrace, named for the writers who stayed here, serves lighter meals through the day for guests who want the view without the full dinner service. Breakfast, too, moves outdoors whenever the weather allows, served with the theatre as a backdrop.
Parking is valet-only and charged per day, which matches a hilltop old town with no real street parking to speak of. The hotel's own beach access removes the one practical complaint about staying in Taormina proper rather than down at the coast — the climb back up — since the shuttle handles it in both directions. Rooms with a full Etna view book first for sunset, so travellers chasing that specific outlook are better served naming it at booking than hoping for an upgrade on arrival. High summer brings the town's biggest crowds to Corso Umberto; late spring and early autumn give much of the same light and warmth with a quieter old town to walk through.
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